March 22, 2024
by Tanya
5-minute read
Getting a Tattoo from Apo Whang-od: FAQs
If you landed on this page, you’ve probably heard of and want to learn more about Apo Whang-od. Maria Oggay is a famous centenarian who practices a traditional technique of inscribing ink on skin in the Philippine Cordilleras. She became well-known for being the oldest Kalinga mambabatok (a traditional tattoo practitioner) alive, and for a time, was the last of her kind. That is, until she started passing on her knowledge to her two apprentices, Grace and Ilyang.
We didn’t do a lot of research before we embarked on our journey to Apo Whang-od’s home. We hope that you’ll find the information below useful and that it will help you prepare better for your trip.
How do I get to Apo Whang-od’s place?
There are several ways to get there:
- By private vehicle – You can drive up yourself or hire a vehicle with driver to take you to Buscalan.
- By joining a tour group – This is a good option if you enjoy meeting people.
- By public transportation – If you like to sightsee and don’t mind taking your time, this option is great for the budget.
- A combination of the above – You can fly to one of the nearby airports (Vigan, Ilocos Sur / Tuguegarao, Ilocos Norte / Cauayan, Isabela) and then hire a private vehicle to take you to Buscalan from there. There are also habal-habals (motorcycle taxis) available in Bontoc, Mountain Province.
How long does it take to get to Buscalan?
If you wish to go straight to Buscalan, it takes around 10 to 12 hours from Manila via either the Baguio-Bontoc or Benguet-Bontoc route. We took our time and visited Baguio and Sagada on the way up, so we got there after 3 days.
What type of vehicle do you recommend for driving up?
We reached Buscalan in a 2000’s Honda CRV with automatic transmission. If you plan to drive something similar, do make sure that your engine is working properly and that your radiator has enough coolant before embarking on your journey. (Bringing extra coolant wouldn’t hurt either.) A 4WD vehicle with manual transmission is best for the terrain.
How many days should I allot for the trip?
We suggest at least 2 nights in Buscalan so that you’ll have one full day for getting Apo Whang-od’s tattoo signature, and perhaps one from her apprentices as well.
What kind of accommodation should I expect?
Please expect basic amenities and varying levels of comfort. Our room, which had enough space 3 foam mattresses on the floor, was supposed to accommodate up to 5 people. (The guesthouse may charge you extra if you don’t want to share with strangers.) It would be rare to find accommodations with en-suite bathrooms here.
Are meals included?
We did the trip independently (also called “DIY”), and we chose not to have the meals included in our booking. We ate sardines and instant noodles during our stay. (Steamed rice, hot water, and coffee were free.)
If you’d like to have full room and board while in Buscalan, make sure to mention this when you book ahead. Travel operators usually include meals in their tour packages.
Can I pay with my credit card?
Cash is the mode of payment in Buscalan. As of this writing, credit cards or GCash are not accepted due to the lack of internet/cellphone coverage. This may change in the near future.
Is there cellphone coverage in the area?
There is no cellphone service in Buscalan. You could access the internet if you have your own satellite internet, but wouldn’t it be nice to be off-the-grid for a while?
What does getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-od involve?
Your guide will take you to the waiting area, where you will be waiting for your turn. While Apo Whang-od no longer does complicated patterns due to her age, she still performs her 3-dot signature. Apo Whang-od draws her signature on your skin, and then she embeds ink from ash by rhythmically tapping on a plant spine with a bamboo stick, while occasionally wiping blood away with a paper tissue.
When your tattoo is finished, your guide will borrow your camera so that you can pose for a photo with Apo Whang-od. We paid an honorarium of Php300, plus Php100 for the souvenir bamboo stick and spine used for your tattoo.
If you wish to have a tattoo from one of the local practitioners, your guide can arrange for an apprentice to do you one at your guesthouse. The price depends on the size and complexity of the tattoo, and it can range from Php1,000 to Php10,000.
Does it hurt?
It depends on the location and on your tolerance to pain. The 3 dots on Apo Whang-od’s tattoo signature are around 6 mm (0.25 in) wide each, which she can place on the body part of your choosing. I had mine on my right wrist, which doesn’t have a lot of nerve endings, so I hardly felt anything.
You can watch the video of the tattoo process on our YouTube channel.
Is an Apo Whang-od tattoo safe?
This also depends on the person. Sten had a 20-cm-long (or around 8 inches) centipede tattooed on his left arm and it was almost healed after a week. On the other hand, the 3 dots that I got from Apo Whang-od got infected the next day and I’m still waiting for the scab on the third dot to fall off three months later. Mind you, this was my first tattoo and I didn’t know that I was supposed to keep it dry for a few days.
Are there other things to do in Buscalan?
Aside from getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-od and her apprentices, you can also take a nature walk, hike the rice terraces, or hang out with the locals. If you would like to visit other places along the way, we recommend staying in Sagada for a few days.
Anything else I need to know about getting an Apo Whang-od tattoo?
We knew that Apo Whang-od’s village lay atop a mountain and we were aware that there was some hiking involved. However, since we didn’t read the material properly, we were surprised to learn that it wasn’t that straightforward. Be prepared for a downhill trek and then a hike up a steep mountainside in order to get to your guesthouse. Make sure that you’re also mentally ready if you don’t like heights.
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